Grange and St Henri once were equals. But as Grange's fame grew, St Henri was eclipsed. Now St Henri is again re–emerging from the shadow of Grange. Matured in large, old vats that impart little or no oak character, St Henri is Shiraz au naturel. '…a wine of effortless, refined persistence', says Tyson Stelzer, '…with a silky, supple mouth feel and yet somehow still firm and enduring'. Says James Halliday: 'A great St Henri that will come into its own in a bare minimum of 10 years, and live long thereafter'.
Ned Goodwin MW and Langton’s Head of Domestic Buying Ramon Gunasekara discuss the newly released Icons, including Grange and St. Henri, from the Penfolds Collection 2020.
Barossa Valley, Adelaide Hills, Southern Fleurieu, Wrattonbully, McLaren Vale. 12 months in large, very old oak vats... Deep, dense red colour with a good tinge of purple; the bouquet very sweet plum, with a sooty, earthy overlay. The wine is medium to full-bodied and remarkably softly-textured, with density and fleshy extract, and a very savoury countenance. Cocoa powder, tar, licorice and spice, especially on the finish and aftertaste. Long, long carry. Lovely wine, the opposite of what might be termed a fruit-bomb.
95 points, Real Review
Barossa Valley, Adelaide Hills, Southern Fleurieu, Wrattonbully, McLaren Vale. 96% Shiraz, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. 12 months in 50+ year old large oak vats. A polished and effortless blueberry, satsuma plum and black olive integrity define a St Henri of enduring, fine-grained tannin structure, undeviating line and grand persistence. Nuances of pepper offer dimension and intrigue. There is an evenness and an effortless focus that set this vintage apart among the great St Henris, approachable from the outset and yet possessing surprising endurance. Drink 2019-2034. 97 points, tysonstelzer.com
Penfolds' much loved and admired St Henri Shiraz continues to plough its own furrow in glorious style. In many ways it is a superb counterpoint to the more senior Grange, having been aged in large, old oak vats. The nose here is cocoa powder and summer pudding with a touch of mocha. This segues on to a palate of red and black fruits, dark chocolate, graphite and licorice. St Henris are usually built for the long haul thanks to their acidity, fruit and densely populated tannins, and this is no exception. Superbly structured, juicily vibrant, sweet and balanced, this is tempting to broach now. However, I’d leave it for a couple of decades and wait for the magic to unfurl. Drink 2017-2040.
96 points, John Stimpfig, September 2017
The stewed plums, the fresh boysenberry, the hint of leather, the general downplay of oak. It sits there, comfortable in its own skin, pretty much immune to the traffic of time. Move past the aromas with this release though and we see a fair bit of grunt; some meaty characters, a deep set of plums, almost a ferrous character, certainly peppercorns, florals. There’s a ramp of tannin here slightly outside the St Henri norm; it gives the wine a wee bit of strut. Just a wee bit. But we are certainly in excellent territory here. Drink 2021-2031+
95 points, Wine Front
An understated hero. Deep crimson. Lovely intense and fragrant wine with blackberry, cassis, graphite, chinotto and herb garden aromas. Sinuous palate with deep blackberry, cassis fruits, fine loose-knit, chalky yet vigorous tannins, and beautiful waxy roasted walnut complexity. Finishes grainy firm with lovely fruit persistency and mineral length. A very fine St Henri with lovely concentration, sweet fruitiness and drive. Should develop more interest and character with time. Leave it for a while. 12 months in 50+ year-old large oak vats. 96% Shiraz, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink 2020-2035. 95 points, Langton's.
Deep, dense red colour with a good tinge of purple; the bouquet very sweet plum, with a sooty, earthy overlay. The wine is medium to full-bodied and remarkably softly-textured, with density and fleshy extract, and a very savoury countenance. Cocoa powder, tar, licorice and spice, especially on the finish and aftertaste. Long, long carry. Lovely wine, the opposite of what might be termed a fruit-bomb. (Barossa Valley, Adelaide Hills, Southern Fleurieu, Wrattonbully, McLaren Vale. 12 months in large, very old oak vats.) 95 points, The Real Review.
Thick deep purple. Refined, really complex nose. Super-ripe purple fruit and lovely polish. So clean and fresh on the end. Suave and velvety. Complete. Lightly salty and beautifully smooth yet with masses of tannins underneath.
18 points, Jancis Robinson (September 2017)
Matured for 12 month in 50+yo large oak vats. No barrel fermentation, no oak flavours of any description, but none needed. This is all about fruit purity, shiraz with the faintest damask of blackcurrant wrapped around it. More than any other of the top range of the Penfolds red wine hierarchy, will repay patience.
95 points, James Halliday (August 2017)
This bottle was opened in front of me and served without decanting. Containing 4% Cabernet Sauvignon and with a deep garnet-purple color, the 2014 Shiraz St Henriz has a relatively shy nose of black plums, black cherries and mulberries with nuances of underbrush, fruit cake and damp soil. The full-bodied palate has satisfying richness, with firm, rounded tannins supporting the earthy fruit layers, finishing with good depth and persistence.
94 points, Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW (November 2017)
Barossa Valley is back to leading this wine. Plenty of baking spices and pepper for early appeal. Fruits are in the ripe blackberry, blueberry and dark raspberry zone. The palate rolls out riper than expected, a very round, rich and enveloping feel to this. Flavor of black tea and plum, tannins really drive ripe and deep.
94 points, Nick Stock (October 2017)
Impenetrable in color and very nearly in style too, this wine is a deep, dark well of cherry chocolate cake, cola, raspberry, and spice. Juicy plush fruit on the palate is balanced by powerful yet silky tannins and a savory finish. This full-bodied wine is in it for the long haul.
92 points, Christina Pickard, Wine Enthusiast (February 2018)
South Australia is the driest state on the world’s driest continent. Covering almost 1 million (984 377km) square kilomteres, it represents 12.8% of the Australian land mass. Sweeping plains are intersected by a spine of relatively low lying ranges, the Mount Lofty/Flinders Ranges which extend through the heart of the State. Over 50% of the state is elevated at under 150 metres. The Great Artesian basin covers almost one-third of the State. The major river is the River Murray which lethargically makes its way into the Southern Ocean. This water mass has a moderating effect on climate, particularly in the southern regions of South Australia where most vines are planted.
Summers are generally hot and dry with relatively mild nights. Winters are cool. Rainfall occurs mostly during late autumn/winter (May, June, July, August). Drought and salinity are major concerns.
The principle wine regions in South Australia are; the Adelaide Hills, Barossa (comprising the Barossa and Eden Valleys), Clare Valley, Langhorne Creek, McLaren Vale, Padthaway, Coonawarra and the Riverland. Vineyard expansion has also extended to Wrattonbully, Mount Benson, Bordertown, Robe, Southern Fleurieu and the Flinders Ranges.
It is a tradition for many wine companies to make multi-district blends from South Australian fruit – the idea of house style taking precedence over regional definition. Penfolds pioneered this concept. The vagaries of vintage variation can be evened out by fruit selection, ensuring quality at a high level. However there is debate that this concept comes at the expense of the ‘soul’ of the wine. Penfolds Grange is probably the most famous multi-district blend and is an excellent counter-argument.Andrew Caillard MW, Langton's
Penfolds is probably the most extraordinary of the world’s wine brands with an enviable reputation for quality at every price level. The original Penfold was an English doctor who, in 1844, planted grapes at Magill, now a suburb of Adelaide. However, it was not until the late 1940s that Penfolds began to forge a reputation for red wine.
The Penfolds house style emerged from a fortified wine producing culture and evolved as a winemaking philosophy which has had a profound effect on the entire Australian wine industry. Many of the techniques initially adopted to make Penfolds Grange would become part of the wider Penfolds winemaking culture. The number of techniques employed in the research and development of Penfolds wines is astonishing. Max Schubert and his team pioneered: major advances in yeast technology and paper chromatography; the understanding and use of pH in controlling bacterial spoilage; the use of headed down/submerged cap fermentation and the technique of rack and return; cold fermentation practices; the use of American oak as a maturation vessel and perhaps most critically, partial barrel fermentation. Nowadays, the use of American oak and barrel fermentation for instance is considered traditional Barossa winemaking practice!
Today, Penfolds house style embraces the concept of multi-regional blending, optimum fruit quality, the use of fine-grained American or French oak, barrel fermentation and maturation. Overall, the Penfolds style is about highly-defined fruit aromas, fruit sweetness, ripe tannins, richness, power and concentration. The number of iconic wines that have emerged from the Penfolds stable over the years is remarkable. Bin 389 a Cabernet Shiraz blend released in 1960 is now considered the quintessential Australian wine blend. Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz and Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz released in 1962 pre-empted the contemporary enthusiasm for regional definition by about 25 years. Improved vineyard management, site selection and winemaking brought about subsequent releases of Bin 707 and Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon. The Penfolds Wine Making Philosophy is the accumulation of more than half-a-century of knowledge and winemaking practice initiated by Max Schubert and subsequently refined by Don Ditter, John Duval and Peter Gago. Their collective commitment to multi-regional and vineyard blending contributed to a consistency of style and quality that has cemented Penfolds reputation as the foremost producer of premium age-worthy red wines in Australia.