Onkaparinga, meaning ‘local region’, is a single vineyard classified internally by the estate as a Grand Cru holding. This is due to its propitious position: an elevated west-facing aspect and Blewitt Springs’ deep sandy soils, strewn with ironstone and pebbly clay. These force the vines to struggle, while promoting optimal-rather than excessive-ripening of the fruit. This said, the vines were planted in 1928. Subsequently they are accustomed to drawing up nutrients via access to deep water reservoirs that only established, older root systems can reach. This confluence between site and vine is crucial, but only if the craftsperson in the winery is able to articulate it as fine wine. And make no mistake, Clarendon Hills is long established as among the country’s finest. Think scents of kirsch, smoked barbecued meats, white pepper, clove, cardamom and black olive lodged in a sheath of smooth tannin and gentle acidity.