The 2020 Clos Cantenac is made from 100% Merlot. It has 14.5% alcohol and is aging in barriques, 40% new, for 12 months. Deep garnet-purple colored, it opens with compelling notes of plum preserves, boysenberries and blueberry compote, plus wafts of underbrush, red roses and Sichuan pepper. The medium to full-bodied palate is laden with juicy black fruits, supported by soft tannins and just enough freshness, finishing with a peppery lift. 8,000 bottles are due to be made.
(90-92) points, Wine Advocate (May 2021)
The 2020 Clos Cantenac offers tightly wound black cherries and blueberry that unfurl nicely with aeration, a very subtle camphor aroma emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, touches of graphite and tea leaf toward a clean, precise finish that is quite traditional and structured in style. It needs a little more tension in the final third but otherwise, good potential.
(89-91) points, Vinous (May 2021)
St.-Émilion is the star of Bordeaux’s Right Bank, north of the Dordogne River. The rich red wines produced in St.-Émilion, based on Merlot and Cabernet Franc, are less tannic and generally more fruit-driven in flavour than the Cabernet-based wines of Left Bank. Merlot thrives on the plateaus high above the Dordogne, where the soil is filled with sand and clay, a perfect medium for creating opulent, fruit-forward wines. With a typically savoury character, St.-Émilion wines are sometimes called the “Burgundies of Bordeaux.” These refined reds, with loads of finesse, are elegant companions to beef, chicken, pork and duck.
The wines of St.-Émilion were not included in the famous 1855 classification of Bordeaux, which ranked wines of the Left Bank. In 1955, St.-Émilion published its own classification, based on soil analysis, wine quality and reputation of the properties. Unlike the 1855 classification, St.-Emilion’s system requires properties to continuously prove themselves. The list is revised regularly, most recently in 2012. There are two tiers within the classification, Premier Grand Cru Classé and Grand Cru Classé. There are currently just 18 Premier Grand Cru properties and 64 Grand Cru Classé properties.
The St.-Émilion appellation is home to hundreds of individual producers, enhancing the variety of wines made there. Many of the properties remain small, family-run enterprises, unlike the large châteaux of the Left Bank. The area is also the base of France’s controversial micro-châteaux or garagiste wine movement; these innovative winemakers operate outside the traditional classification system, making very high quality (and very expensive) highly extracted wines.