Expressive nose of white grapefruit, white pears, sea shells, nutmeg, cloves and dried lemons. It's medium- to full-bodied with a creamy and layered texture. Vibrant. Lovely sweet fruit and integrated subtle spice notes. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

The 2021 Elston Chardonnay is from Hawkes Bay and the four subregions within: Havelock Hills, Gimblett Gravels, Dartmoor and Bridge Pa Triangle. During our tasting, winemaker Phil Brodie said, "The energy and tension needed to come from ripe acidity. So, always 100% malo, but we moved to a Burgundy clone; Mike Bright at Keumeu has quite a bit, Clone 548, Mendoza (and a bit of 95). Handpicked, whole-bunch pressed, ambient settled overnight and straight to French oak, 30% new. The wine spent 11 months in barrel; malolactic fermentation goes through naturally, and this 2021 vintage is 85% malolactic fermentation." The acidity here is juicy and very bright; the orchard fruit in the mouth is silky and plush; and the Malo component contributes a real sweet marzipan, almond skin, crushed nut, vanilla character. Very pretty. Elegant. There is detail, spice and verve here.

Published: Sep 22, 2023

Light-mid yellow colour; subtle nutty/nougat and wheat-meal complexities, the palate tremendously intense, bright, tensioned and focused, with terrific balance and persistence. The subtle complexities really creep up on you. Great concentration and crystalline focus. It is superb now and will richly reward cellaring. 04 JAN 2024

Rich, power-packed, creamy-textured chardonnay with lemon curd, oyster shell, sizzled butter, and yellow-fleshed peach. Accessible, deliciously textural wine with an appealing thread of vibrant acidity 17 JAN 2024