Perhaps the wine that put Primo Estate on the map. It’s an 80% Cabernet and 20% Merlot blend that gets the Amarone technique applied to fruit. Primo claim the dehydration reduces the grapes by about 15%, and adds some serious concentration. It spends around 18 months in new (20%) and old, American and French oak... A pretty serious wine here. Smells of nougat, coconut, dark berry fruits, olive tapenade, plums and mocha powder. So much going on. Oak plays its hand in coconut-tinged flavours, but the freight train of dense, dark, powerful fruit is the main thing happening when you drink. It’s so pervasive, that brooding fruit, and though flecked with leafy, herbal notes, it’s all about concentration and control. Pretty impressive handling by the sinewy tannins, and acidity is back drop in chalky fringes and light saline tang. Very impressive release, destined for long, long spells in cellars. If you go now, go with decanter in hand. 95 points, Mike Bennie (winefront.com.au).