The Saint Joseph appellation is gaining in traction as the fashionability of the Rhône soars in the world’s top fine wine markets. On the propitious side of the river, south-facing with the better sites riddled with schistous limestone and granite, Saint-Joseph is capable of superlative Syrah. Medium-bodied and vital of freshness, the best wines bridle Côte-Rötie’s soaring aromatics with Hermitage’s mettle. This, blue to dark fruit accented with a potpourri of liquorice, clove and five-spice is driven across the mouth by a skein of white pepper-soused acidity. A delicious and highly versatile expression of temperate Syrah.